from 'Helen's Myanmar Trip' by HelenIAM (September 2007)

Mandalay (6 nights):

My plan to go to Bagan next went out of the window when I got the offer of a (cheap) taxi returning to Mandalay. $45 with just myself and Moe the driver who is charming, knowledgable and speaks good English. Took us about 8 hours. Worth asking around in advance for taxi share as there are often taxis coming from Bagan and Mandalay and the return trip is always cheaper. Also did the Royal Cities as daytrips out of Mandalay with Moe and some friends and would recommend him to anyone. $24 for the day for all Mahumuni Paya, bronzecasting, silk weaving, Amapurna, Inwa (Ava) and Ubein Bridge at sunset. (Mobile nos of Moe, the driver: 0920185940 and 092003772).

Stayed at Royal City Hotel which is an absolutely wonderful hotel in a great location . ($13-15 single and $20 double). Lots of friends were persuaded to move here when they saw how great it was. Hated Mandalay on arrival and fell in love with it on day 2. Stayed 6 nights, cycling around the town to see all the local sights and taxi shares to Royal cities and Paleik ($13) which is more interesting for the stupas nearby than the actual 3 snakes in the temple. Went to the zoo. If anyone knows anything about animals please drop in and give them a few tips. Cages were often devoid of any foliage/water and the hippo was well fed but going green. A good scrub would have helped. Tortoises had a massive cage compared to the donkey. Gems market is fun .. what a mans world. Snooker, chat, reading papers, drinking ... and deciding where to make the next cut in that bit of jade/stone!

Gave the Moustache Brothers a miss and saw the Puppets and the dance show nearby instead but friends saw their show and went back the following morning to talk to them some more.

2 earth tremors one night. 10.30pm and then again at midnight. Trishaw drivers in Mandalay are really special. Super helpful, great fun, ever friendly and work for a pittance. They all look about 30 years older than they actually are! Treasure them, you will miss them in Yangon!

Everyone loved the Marie Min vegetarian restaurant.

Was thrilled to discover Papaya mash in Mandalay ... bit like the Som Tham in Thailand. All the little barrows selling beetroot and green mango also sell the papaya. Green papaya mixed with chilli, peanuts and a myriad of other spices. 200 kyat a portion and I could live on it!.

Last bit on Mandalay .. spectacles are really cheap here. I read as much before I went but imagined the frames would be antiquated. Not so. Wonderful shop on 78 street just past the station. Lovely lady who speaks perfect English. I bought 2 pairs of Calvin Klein glasses (one for reading and one for office range) for $110. The lightweight lenses wich cost about $160 here cost 4500 kyat. How can that be? She checked my prescription and for most cases glasses would be ready in one day, 2 days for more specialized such as astimatism. Her shop is at Kyaw Kyaw No 4 Railway Building on 78th between 31st & 32nd street).