from 'Helen's Myanmar Trip' by HelenIAM (September 2007)

Kakku:

Highlight of my holiday was Kakku. Came back to do this 4 weeks later. An extraordinary place. Please don't miss it! Over 5000 intricately carved stupas. Paid $45 for a taxi via Taunggyi where you have to pick up a Pa-O guide before driving on to Kakku. You also have to pay $3 entrance fee and $5 for the guide. Someone had told me that Taunggyi wasn't worth a day trip but I totally disagree. It is a university town, met lots of students from there, has a great everyday market and the weekly market was wonderful. My guide was Marlar who speaks wonderful English ans has a great sense of humour. Well worth asking for her to be your guide but do this in advance through your hotel or taxi driver. She also has a degree in Chemistry. Her husband is a garlic dealer but has a degree in physics and she brought along a student guide who is currently studying law!

The Pa-o people are incredibly organised and forward thinking and changed my perception of things. The area only opened up to the public about 6 years ago and the road wad built 4 years ago. They built and own 2 resorts (Golden Island Cottages I & II) on the lake and the CIG centre in Taunggi. They seem to operate very democratically .... a leader for every 10 houses and then village leaders and a very wise leader at the top who negotiates with the government. Other groups seem to resent their wealth. I gather surrendering their arms 6 years ago lets them live tax free but someone might know differently. (For sure they will!) Anyway they are managing to send lots of their group to university and Marlar gives English lessons for no money.