from 'Helen's Myanmar Trip' by HelenIAM (September 2007)

Hsipaw (5 nights):

Took the train from Pyin Oo Lwin here. Can't remember the price. Travelled first class thinking I would be in luxury and fairly alone. Wrong! Asked to sit on the right as I had heard that was the scenic side. Forgot to ask to face the direction we were going and not to sit near the toilets. (Very important!) Worked out fine in the end.

Got in trouble for taking pictures over the Gotheik viaduct as I was unlucky enough to have some official sitting behind me. Trip took about 6 hours and the Gotheik viaduct and the rice fields were stunning but I thought the shared taxi back was possibly more interesting. Met someone who does trekking at the stop before Hsipaw, a small town called Kyaukme, so would be worth checking this out for something different.

Stayed at Mr Charles ($12-15 single and $15-20 double). There is something so unhealthy about lack of competition. He must be raking it in and he turns the generator off at 10.30pm. I remember 5 nights with minimal sleep in a stiffling hot room. You would hope that he might buy a new quiet generator that he could leave running. There are 2 other places to stay. Friends stayed near clock tower in the Nam Khae Mao and were very happy. Hotel I later stayed at in Monywa told me they plan to build branches in Mandalay and Hsipaw next year.

The area was stunning. Didn't trek but did the boat trip, hours in the rice fields, cycled miles and made it to the waterfall (icy cold) which was really hard work and deserves a medal.

Taxi share back to Mandalay (11500 for back seat). Sat next to a seemingly well loved policeman who was based at Chan Doc (spelling?) about 35 mins from Hsipaw. "Much crime there?" I asked. "No , peace and love" he replied! We stopped at every police station on the way to Mandalay!